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Your dog should not be allowed to sleep on beds or furniture. To make removing him from unacceptable resting areas easier, you may want to have your dog drag a leash during the day while you are home. Anytime you move a dominant dog from his resting position you should use positive reinforcement to minimize aggressive responses. This may include luring the dog off the couch with a food treat and rewarding him for the proper response. Then placing something on the couch that doesn't allow your dog to go back there to rest.
Your dog should sleep in a crate at night and when you are not home The crate should not be in a bedroom. Your dog can "patrol" the inside of the house at night or when you are gone, only after your dog has house manners (is quiet, calm, obedient, stays off furniture, is house trained, doesn't touch forbidden objects, like shoes, tv remote controls, stays out of forbidden areas of the house etc). In addition, all problems (aggression, separation anxiety etc.) should be solved before "patrolling" is allowed.
Your dog should accept being gently moved from any sleeping or resting place. Keep practicing prevention (blocking unacceptable resting places) and gentle removal until your dog responds favorably.
Next topic is " Petting and attention", stay tuned...
Puppies between 2 and 6 months old can be fed 3-4 times daily Dogs between 6 months and 1 year can be fed a premium kibble twice daily Dogs older than 1 year can be fed once daily. Please speak to your Vet if the dog or puppy has unusual dietary needs and alter the schedule accordingly.
Okay, on to Step #1
Prepare your dog's meal and set it aside while you eat your meal. He can eat after you've finished. It is not absolutely necessary that an entire meal be eaten before feeding the dog.
Taking approximately 5 minutes to eat a few crackers and drink a glass of water will still send the message that the leader is eating first. Make sure to ignore your dog while you are eating and only give him his meal if he is not whining or demanding to be fed.
Step #2
When you are ready to give him his meal hold the bowl up over his head until he sits. When he does sit say "Good" and start to bring the bowl down. If he moves, say "No" or "Eh-eh" and quickly bring the bowl back up and out of his reach.
Be ready to block him when you place the bowl on the floor since most dogs will dive for their food the instant they hear the bowl touch the floor. You want to be able to place the bowl on the floor while he's sitting looking at you wondering "What wrong with her today?" Then you can release him to eat with "OK!" Repeat this until your dog doesn't move when you place the bowl down.
Your dog must finish his entire meal in one sitting. If he leaves his bowl, take the food up until the next scheduled meal. Your dog should also allow you to approach the food bowl while he is eating without any growling or snarling.
When a dog looks to thier family unit for leadership and sees no leader, they they figure they must fill the position themselves because every group needs a leader and a pecking order. Some dogs are forced into the leadership role and become very stressed with the responsibility. Some dogs with a dominant temperment will manipulate their way into the leadership role, taking advantage of their owners. In some instances, dogs forced into the leadership role will use aggression to maitain order and consistency. Sometimes dogs that are self appointed into this position will use aggression to maintain their status in the family unit.
Whether a dog is forced into the leadership role or manipulates his way into it, his maneuvers are the same. Dogs assume leadership in a very canine way. They become pushy at the front door, attaining the most centreal and elevated sleeping station, requiring they not be disturbed when resting, barking at anything they think needs barking at for as long as they wish, having first dibs on any food or possession within reach, having the right to defend any food or possessions they come upon, expecting not to be touched in any way they do not like and being able to demand various forms of attention or behaviors from you, their subordinate.
To prevent dog bites, unruly behavior and to preserve the human-animal bond, it is extremely important to undeerstand your role as the leader, "The Pack Leader"
Next installment I'll go over some of the house rules and how to enforce them firmly and fairly. So till next time, stay tuned...
During the developmental periods, puppies learn to communicate and understand communication through body language, facial expressions and vocalization. The dog will practice various body postures and actually learns what responses it gets from it's littermates and mother. Dogs seem to understand this"dog language" as a method of communication regardless of breed, size, or any other form of diversity seen in a dog.
Dogs also assume we also understand their system of communication. Problems occur when we misunderstand the message that the dog is tyring to convey to us using its method of communication. It is important to begin to recognize the different body postures and behavior patterns dogs show to help us understand the dog's mood.
1. Relaxed Body Posture - The dog is relaxed and comfortable with his surroundings a. Tail down b. ears up but not forward c. Head high d. Corners of mouth relaxed
2.Alert Body Posture - the dog is indicating interest a. Tail straight out b. Ears forward c. Mouth closed d. Stands tall on toes
3.Offensive Threat Posture - Dog is aggressive and ready to attack a. Tail up and stiff b. Hackles up c. Ears forward d.Nose wrinkled e. Corners of mouth forward f. Stands tall and forward on toes
4. Defensive Threat Posture - The dog is being self-protective a. Tail tucked b. Hackles up c. Ears back d. Pupils dilated e. Nose wrinkled f. Corners of mouth back g. Body lowered
5. Active Submission - The dog has chosen to submit to the dominant dog/human a. Tail down b. Ears back c. Forehead smooth d. Licks at mouth of superior dog/human e. Corners of mouth back f. Groveling movements with front paws g. Body lowered
6. Play Bow - The dog is indicating that she/he would like to play a. Tail up and wagging b. Ears up c. Mouth open with tongue visible d. Front end lowered
7. Stress a. Tail down b. Ears back c. Pupils dilated d. Rapid panting with corners of mouth back e. Body lowered f. Sweating through pads
The optimum time to socialize your dog is before he or she is 5 months old. After 5 months of age socialization occurs at a slower rate. Socialization should always start as soon as possible - as long as your puppy or dog being socialized is healthy and the socialization is done correctly.
An example of proper socialization is taking a puppy to a group class but only exposing him to pleasant dogs at a distance he feels comfortable with. You should give your puppy food treats, praise, and petting when he is calm. If he becomes agitated, you should not get upset at him, but simply move a bit farther away from class until your puppy is comfortable again. A good sign that a dog is comfortable with a situation is that he or she will take food treats.
An example of poor socialization that can lead to sensitization or even aggression is taking a puppy to a group class and dragging him into the middle of the class where your puppy becomes overwhelmed. You continue to force the situation on your puppy despite the fact that he or she is nervous (eyes dilated, stiff, low body posture, hackles up, unable to take food treats). As the owner, you may even get irate at your puppy because you are embarrassed by the fact that your frightened puppy nipped at an overwhelming adult dog that charged them. Over time your puppy is likely to get more apprehensive during group class. You can expect to see his behavior get worse with each exposure. Your puppy may even become dog aggressive.
By choosing socialization experiences that are appropriate for your puppy you encourage a proper response from your puppy.
If your dog or puppy becomes tense, nervous, or frightened, you must not soothe him. This will only imprint the fearful reaction. Instead, you must learn to re-direct your puppy's attention onto a food treat or toy. You should then calmly get your puppy out of that situation and decide how they can re-introduce their puppy to that situation in smaller steps. You may need to go a bit slower and build up your puppy's confidence with exposure to other public situations. Make sure you are properly using your food treats and that the puppy is hungry enough in those circumstances to be brave to get the treat. You can teach your puppy to learn to be brave by using the food treat to encourage your hungry puppy to overcome his fears in order to get the food treat. Also, you can use a food treat to coax your puppy across a slippery floor, or into a new or noisy area. You can give food treats to strangers to encourage a shy dog to go to strangers.
So the bottom line is, it's so important to be educated about the importance of proper socialization for your puppy or dog.
Another term for socialization is de-sensittization. Unsocialized dogs over react to many common things. (Other dogs, strange noises, cars, bicycles, new people, people who are different than their owners - shorter, taller, wear glasses, wear a hat, etc.)
This de-sensitization is done by exposing the dog to the enviroment in small increments and by helping the dog make positive associations to the things we are desensitizing him to.
It is important not to overwhelm the dog by over-exposing him to new things. This may cause the dog to become sensitized. By forcing or overwhelming the dog, we cause him to make a negative association to things in the enviroment and cause the dog to become more fearful and/or aggressive.
Proper socialization is probably the single most important thing an owner can do to guard against the most serious behavior there is - aggression. Dogs that bite are frequently banished to the basement, to the back yard, re-homed, taken to the pound or euthanized. Therefore, proper socialization can mean the difference between life and death for a dog.
A dog that has not been properly socialized will tend to be shy and over-reactive. They may flinch, freeze or withdraw when petted.They startle easily by things considered routine like children sqealing, cars, bikes, automatic doors, etc. They may even become fearfully aggressive when people do things like make direct eye contact, make direct frontal approaches, smile, make movements over the dog's head or shoulder area when trying to pet the dog. Under socialized dogs fears those normal human greeting behaviors because they are the same as some very threatening canine behaviors. Because people see under socialized dogs acting in a fearful manner. they presume that they were abused. This may be the case sometimes, but not usually.
So as owners we must properly socialize our dogs. Every puppy or new dog must be given every opportunity to become as social as possible. It is a dangerous practice for all owners to go along "feeling lucky" with their puppy. It may be too late to help them after the dog has bitten someone.
While every new dog or puppy owner begin proper socialization immediately, it is even more important for people who adopt from shelters or find a dog on the streets. In these situations, the new owner doesn't know the genetic make-up or personal history of the dog or puppy. Therefore it is much more important to give these rescued dogs every advantage by properly socializing them.
What pooch does not love getting a treat or two now and then. Dog owners also love giving their dog’s treats. If you have a dog, then you have a good idea of what your dog likes to nibble on. There are so many treats available these days and they all come in all different shapes, sizes, colors, and consistencies. For every great dog treat, there are those on the market that are not so good. These treats can harm your pet by being lodged in your dog’s throat or intestines. This can cause choking or worse. If you love treating your canine friend, then you will want to be aware of those treats that can be potentially harmful. Even with treats that are not usually dangerous, you need to supervise your dog when they eat.
Greenies: Most dogs really enjoy these treats. They are advertised as a treats that help clean your dog’s teeth. However, you need to be aware that “greenies” can cause choking. This is because dogs eat these very quickly causes large chunks to lodge in the throat. Young puppies should not eat this treat and dogs that are prone to “scarfing” food. If your dog eats these treats, be aware of potential vomiting, bloody stools, and difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these symptoms after your dog has eaten this treat, seek medical attention.
Rawhide Chews: What dog does not love snacking on these chewy treats? Rawhides are good because it cleans your dog’s teeth and keeps your dog occupied. However, rawhides are dangerous, as well. Some rawhides that originate outside of the United States may actually be preserved with arsenic-based chemicals that will be ingested by your doggie when he or she chews. For this reason, make certain that any rawhide treat you purchase is processed in the United States where this preservative is forbidden. If you cannot tell where a treat originated do not buy it! In addition, you still need to watch your dog when he her she is munching on rawhides to help prevent choking. Make sure you buy rawhides that are the right size for your dog, too. A small dog needs the smaller sized rawhide treats.
Chocolate: Chocolate is a terrible thing to allow dogs to eat. Of course, sometimes dogs get into candy and cake without your knowledge. Chocolate is toxic to both dogs and cats, so you need to be aware of your dog sneaking chocolate nibbles, especially around the holidays. Chocolate contains an ingredient called theobromine. This acts in the canine about the same way caffeine acts in the human. A little will make the doggie hyperactive, but a huge dose may be fatal. If your dog has gotten into chocolate, you need to look for vomiting, shallow breathing, and irregular heartbeat. A visit to the emergency vet unusually results.
Bones: It seems that it is the right of every dog to be able to crunch on a real bone from time to time. Dogs love bones of all types. However, some bones can be dangerous. Both chicken and turkey bones are especially dangerous because they are brittle. When your dog chews on the, they can easily splinter and cause choking. Some pork and beef bones can also cause the same problem. Veterinarians agree that the one of the safest bones you can give your dog is a shinbone. If you must give your dog a bone, make sure you supervise your pooch and if he or she shows signs of bleeding, then you should call your vet immediately for some advice.
Bringing an adult dog into your home demands as much effort from you and the family as does a puppy. It’s a mistake to think that just because the dog is full-grown and may have been potty trained in one home, that he’ll just immediately adjust to your home’s elimination schedule, too.
That’s not realistic. The dog has many adjustments to his new environment and doesn’t instinctively know that you don’t allow peeing on the floor – especially his prior owner didn’t mind or didn’t seem to care.
Don’t make the mistake of assuming that because he’s an adult dog that he’ll just “know” what to do. Start with him as if he were a puppy and gradually teach him the routine of your home’s pet potty schedule.
You probably need to start with crate training or restriction to a bathroom. Then set a schedule for potty breaks. Adult dogs are very picky about finding a potty place outside that’s apart from where they play, just as they don’t like to potty near where they sleep or eat.
Help him find that place in your yard or outside when walking and return him there for subsequent potty breaks. You have to monitor the potty breaks for several weeks to learn your dog’s elimination patterns.
You also have to set morning and evening feeding times. He may not have had such an organized life schedule, so this could take time for adjustment. Don’t believe that old saying, ‘you can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” It’s not the age of the dog that matters - it’s the consistency of the owner.
If your dog came from an abusive home, even if is was just filled with shouting and hitting with paper for any accidents, then your training efforts may take longer. First you have to win the dog’s confidence and understand that he needs time to get comfortable in his new home.
There will be accidents, so be prepared to clean it up and move forward. Don’t assume that an adult dog will be any easier to train than a puppy. Both dogs would face the same adjustment issues. You have to train with consistency and affection so that you reinforce the responses that you want repeated.
An older male dog may be accustomed to marking his territory by urinating on it. This is an instinctive behavior for male dogs - you aren’t going to break him of it without breaking his spirit or having him neutered.
Article Written By J. Foley
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